Crispy Hash Browns with Crème Fraîche

Crispy, salty, briny, and creamy, these delectable hash browns hit all the right notes — keep a stash in your freezer.

Caviar and hash browns
Photo:

Food & Wine / Photo by Victor Protasio / Food Styling by Chelsea Zimmer / Prop Styling by Christine Keely

Active Time:
55 mins
Chill Time:
8 hrs
Total Time:
11 hrs 25 mins
Servings:
6 to 8

Whether served at brunch or dinner, these crispy potato sticks topped with a blanket of creme fraiche and briny trout roe will steal the show. Chef Charleen Sandoval at Born and Raised in San Diego simply seasons the potatoes with buttery shallots and chives before frying the sticks to golden brown perfection. 

Crispy and golden with creamy centers, the hash browns at Born and Raised, a swanky modern steakhouse in the Little Italy district of San Diego, are a must-order side dish. Cut with precision into rectangular sticks from russet potatoes that have been baked and grated, then pressed into a pan to chill, the hash browns are fried to order, topped with a dollop of cooling crème fraîche that drapes over the hot potatoes, and finished with a generous dose of trout roe. These lavish hash browns have been a staple on the menu for years—and once you make them at home, they’re sure to become a regular at your own table, too.

Frequently Asked Questions

  • How do you make crispy hash browns?

    The key to perfectly crispy, golden fried foods that aren’t greasy is temperature control. Be sure to preheat the oil thoroughly before adding the hash browns, and adjust the heat as needed to maintain the temperature throughout the frying process. Use a fry thermometer or instant-read thermometer to accurately measure the oil’s temperature.

  • What should I serve with hash browns?

    The hash browns would be great served at brunch alongside an omelet or breakfast sandwich. They are also the perfect side dish for steak night.

Notes from the Food & Wine Test Kitchen

“Although the recipe initially looks lengthy, each step is so easy. I wouldn’t cut corners here, each step is necessary in helping these stay compact and hold together when slicing and frying,” says recipe tester Marianne Williams.  

Make ahead

The unfried potato sticks can be frozen on a parchment-lined baking sheet until hardened, about 30 minutes. Transfer them to a ziplock bag, and freeze for up to one month. You can fry these directly from frozen, increasing the cook time to about five minutes.

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Ingredients

  • 3 large (10 1/2 ounces each) russet potatoes

  • 1/4 cup unsalted butter

  • 2 tablespoons finely chopped shallot

  • 2 tablespoons thinly sliced fresh chives, plus more for garnish

  • 1 1/2 tablespoons potato starch

  • 1 tablespoon kosher salt, plus more to taste

  • 1/2 teaspoon black pepper, plus more to taste

  • 8 to 12 cups vegetable oil, as needed for frying, plus more for greasing pan

  • 3/4 cup crème fraîche

  • 3 1/2 ounces trout roe

Directions

  1. Preheat oven to 350°F.

  2. Place potatoes on a baking sheet. Roast until fork-tender, 1 hour to 1 hour, 15 minutes. Let cool until room temperature, about 1 hour. (Do not turn oven off.) Peel cooled potatoes and grate the potatoes on large holes of a box grater. Transfer grated potatoes to a large heatproof bowl; set aside.

  3. Melt butter in a small saucepan over medium. Add shallot; cook, stirring often, until softened, 5 to 6 minutes. Pour shallot-butter mixture into bowl with potatoes. Add chives, potato starch, salt, and pepper; stir mixture until well combined.

  4. Line a 9- x 13-inch baking pan with parchment paper, and grease with oil. Spread potato mixture evenly on baking sheet; using your hands or the bottom of a flat glass, press mixture firmly to compact. Cover mixture with another sheet of parchment paper, and top with a separate 9- x 13-inch baking sheet. Transfer to oven, and bake at 350°F for 30 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack (with top baking sheet still in place), and let cool 1 hour. Transfer to refrigerator; place a large can or weight on the top baking sheet to compress potato mixture. Chill at least 8 hours or up to 24 hours.

  5. Add oil to a large Dutch oven to a depth of 2 inches; heat over medium until oil reaches 360°F. Meanwhile, uncover potato mixture, and cut evenly into 26 (1- x 4 1/3-inch) sticks.

  6. Working in batches of about 6 sticks, fry potato sticks, turning occasionally, until crisp and golden brown, about 1 minute, 30 seconds per batch. Using a spider, transfer hashbrowns to a paper towel-lined baking sheet, and season to taste with salt and pepper.

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