What is garam masala?

Garam masala , meaning “hot blend,” is a mixture of warming spices fundamental to Indian cuisine. The spice blend is found in dishes such as tandoori chicken , with flavors from the warming spices including nutmeg, cumin, black pepper, cardamom, coriander, cassia, star anise, and mace. A highly personal blend that varies from cook to cook, garam masala adds depth and nuance to lamb korma , spiced yogurt marinade , and chicken tikka masala . The blend can also be used as the base of a curry or soup when cooked with aromatic vegetables.

What are the best beef cuts for curry?

Meat, whether beef or poultry, is animal muscle tissue comprised of fat (about 5%), protein (around 20%), and water (up to 75%, depending on the cut). Minerals such as zinc and copper, bone, and collagen — the connective tissue that surrounds the cells in meat — also make up those delicious meats that star in smoked beef ribs and kung pao chicken . Collagen breaks down into gelatin as soon as the temperature reaches around 160℉, coating the muscle fibers and resulting in tender pieces of beef. The best cuts of beef for curry are those with high amounts of collagen as well as some marbling from fat, including beef short ribs, chuck steak, and beef round.

Kerala Beef Curry

Active Time:

30 mins

Total Time:

2 hrs

Servings:

For author and chef Asha Gomez, growing up in Kerala, India, meant the most special holiday meals happened in the very early hours of Christmas morning, when relatives gathered for her grandmother’s beef curry, which had been cooking since before midnight mass. In this rendition, boneless short ribs are braised in a perfumed sauce that includes curry leaves, star anise, cinnamon, and garam masala. Salting the beef before searing draws out moisture from the surface for better browning and a crispy texture. Serve with appams.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is garam masala?

Garam masala, meaning “hot blend,” is a mixture of warming spices fundamental to Indian cuisine. The spice blend is found in dishes such as tandoori chicken, with flavors from the warming spices including nutmeg, cumin, black pepper, cardamom, coriander, cassia, star anise, and mace. A highly personal blend that varies from cook to cook, garam masala adds depth and nuance to lamb korma, spiced yogurt marinade, and chicken tikka masala. The blend can also be used as the base of a curry or soup when cooked with aromatic vegetables.
What are the best beef cuts for curry?

Meat, whether beef or poultry, is animal muscle tissue comprised of fat (about 5%), protein (around 20%), and water (up to 75%, depending on the cut). Minerals such as zinc and copper, bone, and collagen — the connective tissue that surrounds the cells in meat — also make up those delicious meats that star in smoked beef ribs and kung pao chicken. Collagen breaks down into gelatin as soon as the temperature reaches around 160℉, coating the muscle fibers and resulting in tender pieces of beef. The best cuts of beef for curry are those with high amounts of collagen as well as some marbling from fat, including beef short ribs, chuck steak, and beef round.

Notes from the Food & Wine Test Kitchen

Make sure to pre-season the beef with salt before searing to draw out moisture from the surface. This allows the beef to get a crispy texture and deeper browning. Indian chiles are available online at foodsofnations.com.

Suggested pairing

A floral, apricot-scented white, like Domaine Zind Humbrecht Gewürztraminer, would pair beautifully with this warming curry.

Make ahead

Store curry in an airtight container in the refrigerator for four to five days or in the freezer for up to one month.

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Ingredients

2 tablespoons canola oil
2 pounds boneless beef short ribs, cut into 3/4-inch pieces
1 1/4 teaspoons kosher salt, divided
1 medium-size (8 ounces) yellow onion, thinly sliced (about 2 cups)
12 fresh curry leaves, plus more for garnish
6 medium garlic cloves, minced (about 2 tablespoons)
4 teaspoons minced fresh ginger (from 1 [3-inch] piece)
1 cup water
1 tablespoon tomato paste
4 whole small dried hot Indian red chiles or dried guajillo chiles
4 whole star anise
2 (3-inch) cinnamon sticks
2 teaspoons ground coriander
1 teaspoon garam masala
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric

Directions

Heat oil in a large Dutch oven over medium-high until shimmering. Sprinkle beef evenly with 1 teaspoon salt. Working in 2 batches, add beef to hot oil, and sear, turning occasionally, until deeply browned on all sides, 5 to 6 minutes. Transfer beef to a plate, reserving oil and drippings in Dutch oven.
Stir onion and curry leaves into drippings in Dutch oven; cook, stirring often, over medium until lightly browned, 4 to 5 minutes. Add garlic and ginger, and cook, stirring continuously, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in 1 cup water, tomato paste, dried chiles, star anise, cinnamon sticks, coriander, garam masala, cayenne pepper, turmeric, browned beef, and remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt. Cover and cook over low, stirring occasionally, until beef is tender, about 1 hour and 30 minutes. Spoon off and discard fat; remove and discard star anise, cinnamon sticks, and curry leaves. Garnish with additional curry leaves, if desired.

Originally appeared in Food & Wine magazine, December 2024 / January 2025