You Don't Have to Leave the US for a German Holiday Market

When I decided to spend my Thanksgiving break three hours away in Carmel, Indiana, I expected twinkling lights, charming shops and plenty of festive cheer. What I didn’t expect was how much this Midwest town’s culinary scene – anchored by the Carmel Christkindlmarkt – would delight me, one bite at a time.

About 20 miles north of Indianapolis, Carmel welcomes visitors with its abundance of roundabouts (more than 140 in total) and an effortless blend of modern amenities and small-town charm. Navigating my first roundabout, I hesitate, earning a honk from a seasoned local. By my third, I have adapted, marveling at the efficient, continuous flow.

The city sparkles in winter, especially along the Monon Greenway, a pedestrian path adorned with arching light tunnels that connect Carmel’s Arts & Design District, Midtown, and City Center. My destination is the crown jewel of City Center: the Christkindlmarkt, an open-air, German-inspired plaza that’s become one of the country’s most-celebrated holiday events.

I arrive at the market on Saturday, just in time to hear the noon bell rung by Maria Adele Rosenfeld, the market’s founder and CEO. A snowstorm of fat flakes begins falling as if on cue, and for a brief moment, it feels as though I’ve stepped onto a Hallmark Channel movie set. Couples in fur-lined jackets skate gracefully on the central ice rink. The air buzzes with cheerful German music, mingling with the enticing aromas of cinnamon, chocolate, cheese, and grilled meats.

Rosenfeld, whose passion for the attraction stems from her life-changing experience as a foreign exchange student in Germany, created the Christkindlmarkt in 2017 with integrity at its core.

“For me, Christmas is German,” she explains as we walk along rows of more than 60 booths. From nutcrackers and cuckoo clocks to handcrafted ornaments and alpaca wool socks, the items we encounter could have been pulled straight from a Bavarian square. “We wanted to be authentic, importing products and recipes directly from Germany,” she says.

The food is German, too, with sights and smells around every corner. I start with a raclette sandwich at the Raclette Chalet, where wheels of the pungent cheese bubble under heaters until they’re scraped onto fresh bread. “There’s always a line wrapped around for it,” Rosenfeld says.

She isn’t exaggerating – as Giovanni Ortiz and Destiny Vuell, a couple also visiting from Ohio, enthusiastically confirm: “That line is so long, but it’s worth it,” Giovanni says, as they dig into their sandwiches topped with ham, pickles, and a dab of mustard.

Next, Rosenfeld leads me to a booth offering Kartoffelspieß, fried potatoes spiraled on a stick, lightly salted and golden crisp. Another favorite is the dumplings and mushrooms from Knodel & Champignons, served with hearty red cabbage. “We’ve had a lot of requests for vegetarian and vegan options over the years, and this dish really speaks to that need,” she says.

The market offers no shortage of mouthwatering desserts.

I stop at the Baumstriezel booth for chimney cakes, a Hungarian pastry rolled in caramelized sugar. Tímea Csibi, who prepares the cakes, shares her secret: “It should never be on a shelf. Chimney cakes are something you want to eat fresh.” The crunchy, warm pastry pairs perfectly with hot chocolate made with Belgian chocolate and heavy whipping cream.

The Christkindlmarkt is the highlight of my trip, but Carmel’s food scene extends well beyond the market. In the Arts & Design District, Peace Water Winery pairs California wines with philanthropy – 50% of the winery’s profits go to charity.

“We specialize in bigger reds and dry wines – something different than what you often find in the Midwest,” says employee Ashley Apollonio as I sip a Russian River Valley Chardonnay.

A quick walk down the Monon Trail brings me to Wine & Rind in Midtown, where charcuterie boards reign supreme.

“We want people to come in and experience something they’ve never had before – wines that they might not be able to find anywhere else,” says general manager Madeline Gordon. As I sit indoors and marvel at the outdoor igloos with a glass of Cabernet and an array of cured meats, cheeses, fruits, and nuts, I can’t help but feel the coziness of Carmel in winter.

Back in City Center, an eatery called Divvy offers a contemporary take on small plates in a warm, modern space. Owned by Richelle and Kevin “Woody” Rider, the restaurant shines with dishes like blistered brussels sprouts, Buffalo cauliflower, and vegan pigs in a blanket. “I like to keep it simple so the brussels sprouts taste like Brussels sprouts,” Richelle says.

On my final morning in Carmel, I stop at Caffe Buondi, a strip mall gem serving Italian-inspired breakfast and brunch. My smoked salmon toast – ciabatta topped with goat cheese, avocado, capers, and a drizzle of olive oil – is the perfect send-off. Owner Andrea Melani sums up the experience: “It’s an Italian twist on the American breakfast.”

As I pack up and prepare for my drive back to Ohio, I realize Carmel has offered more than a festive weekend – it has delivered a feast for the senses. Whether through the smoky warmth of raclette cheese, the crunch of a chimney cake, or a Champagne toast to “Baby It’s Cold Outside” at Hotel Carmichael, this little Indiana town leaves a big impression.

The Christkindlmarkt may have been my destination, but it was Carmel’s food and hospitality that turned my visit into a holiday memory I won’t forget.