I Just Visited Geneva and Can Confidently Say It's Europe's Most Underrated Food City

Geneva is vastly underrated as far as European cities go. Whenever I told someone I would be visiting the Swiss city for a long weekend, they looked at me funny. Even my dear father asked me bluntly: Why? But the truth is, Geneva is filled with the unexpected, just waiting to be discovered in every alleyway. And turn after turn, I found it brimming with everything I love: culture, cuisine, and shopping. Best of all, it is nearly empty compared to other European cities (and like this year-round), so snagging a table or finding idle streets to wander couldn't be easier.  

As for where to eat and what to see and do, the options are expansive. Different regions in Switzerland have unique direct influences. For example, Zurich, in the eastern part of the country, is more German, while Geneva, in the west, is almost entirely French. However, as the capital city, it is filled with every cuisine you could imagine, and visiting means you get the best French, Italian, and Swiss cuisine without having to venture elsewhere. 

The French cuisine in Geneva is the easiest to find, although beyond corner brasseries, the spots lean towards classic fine dining. Le Jardiner, a Michelin-starred spot, and L'Artichaut both fit the bill if you're looking for something on the finer side. But if you must go to one, make it the much more casual Bistrot du Bœuf Rouge for the namesake beef filet. 

Italian can be found with ease in the Eaux-Vives neighborhood, which just so happens to be where the city comes alive at night as well. On a street buzzing with wine bars (here is the only place you'll have trouble grabbing a seat), Tosca transports visitors from Geneva to Florence. Chef serves up refined Tuscan fare paired with a wealth of Italian wines underneath an entirely frescoed ceiling. I didn't think the best risotto of my life would be in Switzerland, yet here we are.

Of course, you can't miss Swiss cuisine when you're in Switzerland, and there are two absolutely must-visit spots in the capital city. The first, Les Armures, is the oldest cafe in Geneva, located in the heart of the old town. The menu supposedly hasn't changed since the 17th century and is punctuated with raclette, lake perch, and more. But you came here for the fondue, and that's what to indulge in before rolling yourself down the hill to your hotel. 

Next, there’s Chez Ma Cousine, which is essentially Swiss fast food, but if this is fast food, then I want to eat it every day and re-do “Super Size Me.” The restaurant only serves half chicken and fries, but it is the best chicken and the best fries. The chicken is juicy, served bone-in, and roasted, and the fries are big wedges of potatoes fried twice that are ideal for sopping up the sauce. Oh yes, the sauce: Make sure to add the cousine sauce, and you’ll leave full, ready to embark on more shopping adventures through the city. There’s also a side salad, but somehow that feels less important.

This isn’t to say that this is all Geneva has to offer, just a quick list of highlights. In fact, in such a global city as Geneva, dozens of cuisines are sprouting up daily, but there’s one worth mentioning, and that’s Peruvian. Inside the Mandarin Oriental Geneva, there is an incredible Peruvian restaurant called Yakumanka, which is ripe with colors and flavors, all with the Rhone River as the backdrop. Notably, they are sourcing some of the freshest fish in the city, alongside the other restaurant in the property, Sachi, which is the first Japanese omakase in the city. This means the ceviches are bright, flavorful, and make for a much-needed light meal after a couple of days of gorging oneself on fondue and frites.

So, consider Geneva next time you plan a trip to Europe and want to do it all. Or just pop into town for the fondue. Either way, you won’t leave with an empty stomach.