gnocchi with asparagus and pancetta — Photo:
Victor Protasio / Food Styling by Margaret Dickey / Prop Styling by Shell Royster

Active Time:

1 hr 15 mins

Total Time:

1 hr 55 mins

Yield:

4 servings

A stellar potato gnocchi starts with good potatoes. Cinzia Merli, proprietor of Le Macchiole vineyard and winery in Bolgheri, Italy, recommends potatoes with a good moisture content, like Yukon Golds or new potatoes. Tossed with delicate springtime asparagus and a savory, emulsified, pancetta-flavored pan sauce, this Tuscan Gnocchi’s appeal lies in its simplicity.

Frequently asked questions

Is potato gnocchi difficult to make?

Gnocchi is one of the easier homemade pastas to pull off: It requires no special equipment, and you can make a big batch so you have some to freeze for later. It starts with potatoes — fresh are best — that you can boil or bake, depending on the recipe. The cooked potatoes are put through a ricer and incorporated into a flour- and egg-based dough. You only need your hands to roll the dough into ropes and then cut into little dumplings that can be dropped into boiling water to cook. You can finish gnocchi by sautéing it in a pan with butter or olive oil, or serve it straight from the pot topped with your favorite pasta sauce.

Can I use any kind of flour for gnocchi?

The flour-to-potato ratio is key for gnocchi. Different flours vary in protein content, which can alter the texture of any dish. A great rule of thumb for potato gnocchi is the less flour, the better. The more flour added to the potato mixture, the more the density of the dough increases. We recommend Italian-style 00 flour to give the dumplings a perfectly light, pillowy texture. It is widely available at grocery stores. However, all-purpose flour can also make wonderful gnocchi.

Notes from the Food & Wine Test Kitchen

Gnocchi is all about texture. Start by making sure your potatoes are fully drained before working with them. Excess water can make gnocchi sticky and gummy. An egg yolk (rather than a whole egg) helps bind the dough together and keeps the gnocchi texture light and pillowy without extra chewiness.

Make ahead

You can freeze uncooked gnocchi for up to 3 months. To make Tuscan Gnocchi ahead of time, proceed through step 3, and freeze on a baking sheet until firm, about 1 hour. Transfer frozen gnocchi to a large zip-close freezer bag, and freeze. To cook, proceed with step 4 as directed, boiling gnocchi from frozen and increasing time for gnocchi to rise to the surface from 1 minute to 2 to 3 minutes.

Suggested pairing

Pair Tuscan Gnocchi with a lively red blend such as Le Macchiole Bolgheri Rosso.

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Ingredients

2 pounds small new potatoes (such as Yukon Gold), peeled
1 large egg yolk, beaten
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt, divided, plus more to taste
1 1/3 cups Italian-style 00 flour (about 6 1/4 ounces), divided, plus more as needed
4 ounces pancetta, cut into 1- x 1/4-inch batons (about 2/3 cup)
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for greasing
3/4 cup finely chopped yellow onion (from 1 small onion)
1 pound pencil-thin fresh asparagus, trimmed and cut crosswise into 1- to 1 1/2-inch pieces (about 2 1/2 cups)
1/4 teaspoon black pepper

Directions

Place potatoes in a large pot; add cold water to cover by 1 inch. Bring to a boil over high. Reduce heat to medium-high, and boil, stirring occasionally, until potatoes are very tender when pierced with a fork but not falling apart, 22 to 25 minutes. Drain well. Let stand until cool enough to handle, about 15 minutes. Rinse pot, and set aside.
Press potatoes through a potato ricer into a medium bow (or mash with a fork in a medium bowl until mostly smooth and fluffy); spread potatoes in an even layer on a clean work surface. Let cool almost to room temperature, about 10 minutes. Drizzle egg yolk evenly over potatoes. Sprinkle 1 teaspoon salt and 2/3 cup flour evenly over top. Fold mixture over onto itself several times using a bench scraper or rubber spatula. Sprinkle with remaining 2/3 cup flour, and gently knead just until all flour is incorporated and dough is soft and smooth. (To test the consistency, pinch off a small piece of dough, and roll it into a rope. If it falls apart, knead in 1 tablespoon additional flour, and test again.)
Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper, and sprinkle lightly with flour; set aside. Divide dough into 8 equal pieces. Working with 1 piece at a time (keeping remaining dough covered with a clean towel to prevent it from drying out), roll dough into a 1/2-inch-thick rope. Cut rope crosswise into 1/2-inch pieces. Place gnocchi in a single layer on floured baking sheet. Repeat with remaining dough pieces.
Fill cleaned pot with salted water, and bring to a boil over high. Lightly oil a rimmed baking sheet, and set aside. Working in 4 batches, add gnocchi to boiling water; stir once, and let cook, undisturbed, until gnocchi puff and float to the surface, about 1 minute. Continue to cook gnocchi 1 more minute, and transfer to oiled baking sheet using a slotted spoon. Repeat with remaining gnocchi. Reserve 1/2 cup cooking liquid.
Heat a large nonstick skillet over medium. Add pancetta, and cook, stirring occasionally, until browned and crisp, about 6 minutes. Transfer pancetta to a small bowl using a slotted spoon; reserve drippings in skillet.
Add oil to skillet with drippings, and heat over medium-high. Add onion; cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent, 3 to 4 minutes. Add asparagus, pepper, and remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt; cook, stirring occasionally, until asparagus is bright green, about 1 minute. Add gnocchi and 1/2 cup reserved pasta cooking liquid; cook, tossing constantly, until gnocchi is coated in a creamy sauce, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from heat, and season with additional salt to taste. Top with crispy pancetta, and serve immediately.