This California Valley Copyrighted the Region's Whole Barbecue Menu

Here’s how this lesser-known American barbecue took root and where to try Santa Maria-style tri-tip.

A cook working over an outdoor grill at Priedite Barbecue in Los Alamos.
Photo:

Bonjwing Lee / Courtesy of Priedite Barbecue

California cuisine is known for its fresh ingredients, with 40% of the state’s land used for agriculture, according to the Public Policy Institute of California. Amid the farmland of Santa Barbara County on the state’s Central Coast, California’s farm-to-table ethos extends to barbecue in Santa Maria. The valley’s signature style dates back more than 150 years to the days of the Rancheros when California was a territory of Mexico.

Vaqueros would roundup cattle during the fall and spring equinoxes for gatherings around flaming ground pits. The grilled beef was served with the bounty of the land: fresh lettuce, salsa, and beans. As wheat became more prominent in California, toasted bread was served to scoop up the pinquito beans. “Vaqueros brought the beans from Spain or perhaps they traveled up from Mexico in a saddle bag,” says Nick Priedite, owner and pitmaster of local Priedite Barbecue.

Over time the cooking process evolved into an open-flame iron grill, where the meat is lowered and raised into the burning pit of coastal red oak wood. In 1978, The Santa Maria Valley Chamber of Commerce was granted a copyright of Santa Maria-style barbecue to protect the name and integrity of the cooking style: The meat, usually top sirloin or tri-tip, must be grilled over coastal red oak wood and served with bread, pinquito beans, green salad, and salsa.

Priedite has made a name for himself in the area with his weekend pop-up barbecue at Bodega in Los Alamos. As a newcomer, Nick understands the importance of maintaining the local tradition. “It’s imperative to cook everything over red coastal live oak, which is endemic to California, meaning it can’t survive anywhere else,” he says. “The simple mixture of salt, pepper, and garlic is dry rubbed on the meat before placing it on the open fire grill.”

Here’s where to sample the best Santa Maria-style barbecue on a visit to the Central Coast.

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Priedite Barbecue (Los Alamos)

Sandwiches and sides on a tray at Priedite Barbecue in Los Alamos.

Bonjwing Lee / Courtesy of Priedite Barbecue

A weekend-only eatery located outside Bodega, a natural wine shop and beer garden in Los Alamos, Priedite Barbecue is the newest addition to the Central Coast barbecue scene. The quality of the meals here has spread through word of mouth, as visitors share their experiences on social media and tell their friends about the growing barbecue offerings. Priedite’s menu differs by day, serving tri-tip on Thursdays, barbecue on Saturdays, and burgers on Sundays.

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The Hitching Post (Casmalia)

Meats and vegetables over hot coals at The Hitching Post.

Natalie Stricklin / The Hitching Post in Casmalia

Founded by the Ostini family in 1952, The Hitching Post is a pillar in the Santa Maria Valley’s history, where locals gather to celebrate milestone events in the 100-year-old building. In 1977, owner Bill Ostini took over the daily operations from his father, along with his brother, Frank Ostini, who now owns the outpost in nearby Buellton. The Hitching Post serves one of the best top sirloins in the area, cooked over a flaming indoor barbecue pit.

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Far Western Tavern (Orcutt)

Interior view of Far Western Tavern in Orcutt, California.

Courtesy of Far Western Tavern

The Minetti family has owned Far Western Tavern in Old Town Orcutt for more than five decades, spanning three generations. At the landmark for Santa Maria-style barbecue, the menu reflects the traditional meal with blends of the Minetti family’s Swiss-Italian roots. Diners can opt for grilled polenta or ravioli to go along with their classic dinner.

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Shaw’s Steakhouse & Tavern (Santa Maria)

The interior of Shaw's Steakhouse

Courtesy of Shaw's Steakhouse

Established in 1953, Shaw’s is one of the original homes of Santa Maria-style barbecue, where the meat is cooked hot and fast over an open flame. Start with the Linguica, a spicy Portuguese sausage, which nods to the early Portuguese settlers of the region. The extensive list of oak pit entrees has something for every meat lover, with the heftiest being the 20-ounce rib-eye center “Cowboy Cut.”

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Jocko’s Steakhouse (Nipomo)

Meats being grilled at Jocko's Steakhouse

Courtesy of Visit SLO CAL

This family-owned eatery got its start as a saloon in 1925, when Ralph “Jocko” Knotts ran the joint with his business partner “Bull” Tognazzini. At the end of the 1940s, the family expanded the business to a barbecue restaurant. The new generation continues to serve Santa Maria-style barbecue cooked over the signature red oak coals. Locals top their steak with Jocko’s housemade, Santa Maria-style salsa. The grilled artichoke is a favorite, along with the steak burger, made with beef that’s ground in-house from the restaurant’s aged hand-cut steaks.

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