Peru's Popular Cheese Ice Cream Doesn't Contain Any Cream or Cheese

I’m hypnotized by the spin of the large silver bowl and the mystery of its contents. We’re on the second floor of the buzzing San Camilo Market in the heart of Peru’s underrated culinary capital, Arequipa. I haven’t come to shop, I’ve come to try queso helado, the country’s iconic dessert originating in this southern city. According to my local guide, Norma, this small nook of an eatery with a handful of tables draped in red and white checkered tablecloths, is the most authentic place to sample "cheese ice cream."

The colonial-era city of Arequipa sits in the shadow of El Misti, perhaps the most imposing of the landmark resident volcanoes which can be seen from almost anywhere. It’s known as the “White City” for the abundant buildings constructed out of sillar white volcanic stone, its proximity to Colca Canyon, and the 300 days of sunshine it sees annually. The city has a thriving culinary scene, with historical picanterías (lunch restaurants) slinging regional specialties such as chicha la guińapo (a traditional fermented beverage), chupe de camarones (river shrimp chowder), and rocoto rellena (spicy stuffed peppers). For dessert in Arequipa, there’s one sweet treat that outdoes all though: queso helado.

Arequipa is the birthplace of Queso Helado, and although its name translates to “cheese ice cream” or “frozen cheese,” this only refers to how it's traditionally served, in slices on a plate. It dates back to 16th-century colonial times, when the Spanish arrived in Peru, introducing cattle, and subsequently, milk and cheese to this region of the Andes. Legend has it that the culinary-inclined Spanish nuns at Arequipa’s Convent of Santa Catalina should be credited as the pioneers in creating Queso Helado. At this time it was considered a luxury, a sweet treat for the elite. Now, it graces almost every restaurant menu and street corner in the city, proof of its popularity.

The historic center surrounds the Plaza de Armas, which feels lively at any hour of the day. Here, you’ll find queso helado vendors with small carts of the already prepared ice cream treat, serving it in a tiny cup or cone. But if you want to taste the real thing, venture about four blocks to the Mercado San Camilo and visit Angelica Machuca Velazquez. Her grandparents started making this handmade ice cream 90 years ago, and she has been keeping the family tradition alive in her small market restaurant, Machuquita, for the last 30 years, with the help of her husband.

“My arm hurts at the end of the day,” she says with a smile. “Every day, I prepare 30 liters of fresh milk, more on the weekends. I’m here from 6 a.m. to 4 p.m., and it takes me two hours to prepare the first batch.” Every so often she spins the bowl sitting atop a wooden barrel, which needs to be churned or “moved” each half hour. I do the math and think about how much sleep she’s sacrificed to keep her family business going.

Velazquez explains that there is no cream (or cheese) in queso helado, rather, "fresh cow’s milk, condensed milk, dried coconut, vanilla, cloves, and cinnamon — that’s it!" The milk is boiled and mixed with the other ingredients before placing the metal bowl over a barrel of ice to freeze the walls of the bowl, which creates layers of cheese-like ice cream. She takes the spatula, expertly slicing and scooping three layers of queso helado onto a small plate, dusting it with cinnamon before offering it to me.

Given that I just wiped the sweat from my forehead in the 90-plus-degree heat, I’m more than ready for this cold confection, which does, in fact, resemble cheese. The result is the epitome of refreshing; sweet, but not too sweet, with a simple but deliciously all-natural flavor, unlike any ice cream I’ve ever had. My guide Norma tells me that some versions include egg yolks to give it a custard-like texture and taste, or other ingredients such as fruits for a creative take on the dessert. But I can’t imagine that they are better than this traditional version.

“Any time of the day is good to eat it,” she says with a twinkle in her eye. And I’d have to wholeheartedly agree.