7 Lessons I Learned as a Fishmonger That I Still Use Today

At the age of 21, I learned an unexpected party trick. No, it wasn’t a keg stand or how to take a shot without a chaser, like so many others of my newly minted, legal-drinking-age peers. It was the uncanny ability to know exactly how much a bag of clams weighs just by holding it with my right hand. 

After being furloughed in March of 2020 from my job as a restaurant host, I was in the market for a summertime gig. My college classes had ended for the year, and, as an only child living at my mom’s house during the height of the pandemic, my lack of anything to do was beginning to drive her a little nuts. 

While on a drive in our small Connecticut town, we saw a torn paper sign in the window of Bud’s Fish Market: Counter Help Wanted. My hosting job had been at a sushi restaurant and that was enough to get me in the door.

Bud’s, a quintessential Connecticut shoreline fish shop, was in its second generation of ownership at the time of my employment with Hal, Bud’s son, serving as the curmudgeonly manager at the helm. A rotating array of local high school–aged boys worked part-time shifts. My being a college-aged girl who grew up in New York City made me an unknown quantity for Hal. It was a tough place to work, and I shed plenty of tears in the walk-in freezer, but I outlasted all of the younger — and, in Hal’s eyes, tougher — boys. 

Eventually, Hal grew to accept me. After I put in my two week's notice at the end of the summer, Hal asked (well, pleaded) that I come back to work at Bud’s during my Christmas break. There was zero chance of that happening, but it was a big win in my book that he even wanted me back. 

Even better, during my time working at Bud’s, I learned some important lessons, from how to portion salmon to how to hold a lobster without hurting myself. Here are seven tips I picked up during my summer as a fishmonger that I use today.

Scrape the fish spine for extra meat

In larger fish like tuna, swordfish, or salmon, there’s a lot of meat that hugs the fishes’ spine and ribs. To access this bonus meat after filleting the fish, use a spoon to scrape in between the bones. The meat is extra tender, soft, and flavorful. Pro tip: Ask your fishmonger if they have any scraped rib meat for sale – it will be far cheaper than a fillet and can be used in just about anything from burgers to pasta sauce.

Lobster spikes can (and will) hurt you

While working as a fishmonger, my hands were constantly cut up and scraped. These injuries were more annoying than actually hazardous, and they weren’t from cutting fish — they came from grabbing live lobsters from the tank. While lobster claws are safely secured with taut rubber bands, the sharp raised bumps along the lobster’s body and head can easily pierce through skin. Be extra mindful when handling live (or cooked) lobsters, and avoid grabbing them by the head where these spikes are centralized.

Use your fingers to portion salmon

Not surprisingly, salmon fillets were one of the best sellers at Bud’s Fish Market. We’d get whole salmon delivered and butcher them into two sides. When portioning salmon into smaller one-pound or half-pound portions, we’d only get one chance to make a cut — selling a too small piece of salmon is much more difficult than one that is just a touch too large. This is where the old adage of “measure twice, cut once” really comes in handy.

I learned to use my fingers to approximate the size of a half-pound piece. The width of my index and middle finger next to one another was about a half pound piece. If you buy a whole side of salmon and portion it at home, use the width of these two fingers to measure out each portion.

Learn to fillet a branzino

“If you teach a man to fish…” You know the saying, and the same goes for breaking down a whole fish. To practice this useful kitchen skill, start with branzino.

Branzino are commonly sold whole, either in their entirety (not yet gutted) or with the interior cavity cleared and spine removed. They range from 10 to 15 inches in length and are a very manageable fish to work with. Use a single motion to cut through the belly of the fish, and then, with your hands (ideally in plastic, food-safe gloves), pull the gills toward the fish’s tail — this will clear out the cavity in one fell swoop. A sharp knife and some basic instructions will make removing the fillets from the spine a breeze. Once you’re comfortable with branzino, try a large trout or even a whole salmon.

Cook mussels from frozen

I learned this lesson from the biggest error I made while working at Bud’s. We sold frozen mussels, clams, and other shellfish, and I mistakenly thought they all had the same cooking instructions. Clams and shrimp need some defrosting time before cooking, so when a customer asked if they should thaw the mussels, which came frozen in a vacuum-sealed plastic bag, I answered yes. 

The customer came in a few days later complaining that the mussels opened up while thawing.  I learned a lesson I’ll never forget: Do not defrost frozen mussels before cooking them. Their shells will pop open and the meat inside will defrost and poach as they are steamed or boiled.

Invest in fish bone tweezers

One of my favorite tasks at Bud’s was picking pin bones out of salmon sides. The simple, repetitive motion was both meditative and incredibly useful. After all, it saved whoever would eat that salmon from biting down on a needle-like bone while trying to enjoy their teriyaki (or whatever). Pinbones run laterally along the side of any small-to-medium fish (tuna or swordfish are a different story), and can be easily spotted by their milky white hue. You can find them by running your finger along the center of the fish. Simply press the nose of the tweezers into the fish, grasp the bone, and give a gentle tug. My favorite pinbone tweezer is this slim Japanese model you can buy for just $6.

A sharp box cutter is safer than a dull knife

A dull knife is one of the most dangerous kitchen tools; instead of gliding through whatever you’re cutting, it can slip and hit your finger. On a family vacation to a lake in upstate New York, my boyfriend caught an 18-inch smallmouth bass. Our vacation rental had only dull, largely useless knives, so I broke down the fish with a sharp, fresh-out-of-the-package box cutter. This isn't a tip I recommend for everyday use, but it's a good one to know in a pinch. 

Despite the challenges of working at Bud’s — tears, cut-up hands, a tough boss – I’m thankful for my time as a fishmonger. I gained a lot of grit that summer, which later made working in restaurants, and now, in the corporate media world, a whole lot easier in comparison. I’ve got a lot of respect for fishmongers and am proud to have been one – it’s by far the most interesting thing on my resumé.