In Champagne, Locals Aren't Popping Bottles or Toasting With Flutes

To much of the world, Champagne is the ultimate symbol of celebration and luxury, uncorked often for life’s grandest moments. But for the people of Champagne, the Champenois, this effervescent nectar is woven into the fabric of daily life. Here, it’s savored with a familiarity that can’t be found anywhere else.

Nestled in northeastern France, a 46-minute train ride from Paris, the Champagne region is a picturesque blend of rolling vineyards, historic towns, and the world’s most famous bubbly. While visitors are lured into curated tours, the real charm of the region lies in experiencing it like a local. Unlocking the Champenois way of life involves more than just popping bottles; it's about embracing traditions that make this sparkling wine an integral part of daily life in the region. 

Humble beginnings

“Effervescence in wine is very old. It's a natural phenomenon,” explains Brigette Batonnet, who has been with the Comité Interprofessionnel du Vin Champagne (CIVC) for decades. “It's fermentation, and if fermentation takes place in a closed container, the bubbles will stay inside. Egyptian tombs mentioned wines with effervescence. Romans also. But, even in Champagne, it was seen as a defect, something to absolutely avoid.”

Starting in the 18th century, wine was shipped in bottles instead of barrels, inadvertently trapping gas inside — a particular issue for the wines of Champagne. France’s northernmost wine region was famed for its unique whites made from black grapes, a local invention known as vins gris. Champagne's cold, lengthy winters meant late harvests and incomplete fermentation by the shipping season.

But drinkers fell in love with this faulty wine, and its success quickly spread. "The sparkling wines of Champagne were the first to be put on the market," continues Brigitte. "Other regions began making it much later, but for a long time, champagne was the only sparkling wine available."

Since the mechanics of fermentation were not well understood, bottles exploded, wasting expensive materials. This mysterious and costly wine gained a reputation as a luxury item enjoyed by the nobility and bourgeoisie, an image that still persists today. 

Champagne without the fanfare

“Even in Champagne, not everyone can drink Champagne every day, but we don't have the same perception as people elsewhere,” shares Brigitte. “Many of us are related to winegrowers, surrounded by vineyards and the industry itself — 15,000 winegrowers, 300 champagne houses, and about 30,000 employees. Because so many locals are immersed in the industry, they don't view it with the same sense of awe as outsiders do.”

For example, don't expect to hear bottles constantly popping over here. It's not something locals do for show. “We don't like to pop the cork,” Brigitte emphasizes. “We believe it should be done quietly, with a gentle ‘sigh,’ as we say. The goal is to avoid making a loud noise.”

And Champagne is rarely poured into flutes or coupes. Champenois favor glasses wide at the bottom and narrow at the top: tulip or white wine glasses, which allow the bubbles to evolve and the aromas to concentrate. “We want to explore and understand the complex aromas of grower Champagne or older vintages,” says Nicolas Papavero, co-owner of Le Wine Bar by Le Vintage in Reims (winner of the Star Wine List’s Best Sparkling Wine List in France) and the Caves Papavero wine shops.

But the most charming local tradition is serving Champagne in blidas. Tied to the region’s long history with glass production, including Algerian tea services, these little vessels are not ideal for showcasing Champagne's finer qualities. However, they’re a staple among winegrowers because they’re sturdy, pocket-friendly, and perfect for sipping while tending the vines. Don’t look for them in restaurants or bars — they are for village fêtes or big celebrations. This practical, down-to-earth approach adds a unique touch to the region's wine culture.

A wine like any other

The Champenois enjoy Champagne just like any other wine. Over here, if you have friends over, you open that bottle of bubbly that’s already chilled. You can't imagine serving anything else when you're entertaining or having an aperitif.

“Drinking Champagne is a convivial, epicurean moment,” says Camille Julien Gilardi, cofounder of E.P.C Champagne, a brand democratizing Champagne. It's customary to enjoy it throughout a meal. Blanc de Blancs accompanies fish or a Blanc de Noirs with creamy mushrooms and poultry. Champenois even enjoy Champagne with cheese, a less common pairing elsewhere. Local buttery Chaource marries perfectly with brut or extra brut. More audacious gastronomes might prefer a strong regional Maroilles with rosé. “What's great is the wide variety of Champagnes available. Each can pair wonderfully with different types of dishes.”

It’s standard for local restaurants to suggest the pairings for your meal, with many of the top ones featuring extensive Champagne lists. 

When visiting Champagne

The best way to enjoy Champagne like a local is to be adventurous. “Discover the diversity in the vineyards, explore the villages,” Nicolas recommends. The passageway between Reims and Epernay, or the bigger loop between Louvois, Avize, Cramant, Bouzy, and Ambonnay, are particularly popular with the Champenois. “Go to the places that locals frequent. Look for authenticity.”

In Reims, some of the more popular spots for locals include Le Wine Bar by Le Vintage and hidden gems along the Rue de Tambour, such as Sacré Burger. Epernay is home to La Cave de l'Avenue. But don’t be afraid to leave the hustle and bustle for more confidential spots in the countryside like Les Avisés, Le Recommandé or Couvert de Vignes (a personal favorite). A little further away, Le Garde Champêtre can be found south of Troyes, and L’Ouvrée in Château-Thierry is closer to Paris.

“Really explore Champagne, browse the different terroirs, discover the nuances of the region,” Camille recommends. “You can find anything from tiny independent producers to major houses. That’s the beauty of Champagne.”