Why the Roots of Boba Tea Are More Important Than Ever

Ever since the first wave of boba tea shops hit the U.S. in the 1990s, the popularity of the Taiwanese drink with floating tapioca balls sipped through oversized straws has been bursting. Initially concentrated around Asian communities, the beverage — also known as bubble or pearl tea — has grown into a mainstream staple in the last decade or so, with Starbucks even offering its own take earlier this year. 

With every craze comes entrepreneurs jumping on the bandwagon; among them is Quebec-based Bobba, self-described as a “ready-to-drink bubble tea made with an infusion of real tea and unique fruit juice beads,” created after “doing a lot of research on the product and its origin,” according to its own site.

When its entrepreneurs Sébastien Fiset and Jess Frenette went on a Shark Tank-like Canadian TV show called Dragon’s Den, hoping to drum up more funding and publicity, China-born Canadian actor Simu Liu pointed out the company’s lack of acknowledgment of the drink’s roots on its packaging, in essence erasing its origins.

“I would be uplifting a business that is profiting off of something that feels so dear to my cultural heritage,” the Shang-Chi star said on the October 10 episode of the CBC program. 

Liu’s comments have bubbled up the much-needed conversation over cultural theft and appropriation, the idea of adapting something to the point of wiping out its origins.

“It’s a little shocking to me that in this day and age, any company thinks it’s a brand advantage to hide the ethnic origins of food or drink,” Jeff Yang, Asian American culture writer and co-author of Rise: A Pop History of Asian America from the Nineties to Now, told Food & Wine. He added that Bobba’s target market of young consumers has grown up on anime and K-pop and understands boba tea’s roots. “That’s literally part of what makes them drink it.”

Without proper acknowledgment, that exact consumer appeal and intrigue that made the drink so trendy then falls into danger of dissipating. This is especially essential in the culinary space, explained Brian Pham, co-founder of the nonprofit Meals for Unity, which provides meals for the impoverished in New York City’s Asian American community. 

“We believe that food is a powerful vessel for cultural expression,” he said. “The line between celebration and appropriation is often delicate…It’s crucial that businesses not only profit from cultural traditions but also support and empower the communities that create them. This is a step toward true inclusivity in the food industry.”

On top of that, there’s an entire multilayered and complex history tied to the beverage. “Boba cafes have been important spaces where Asian Americans have created and affirmed new identities and communities in a society that has historically maligned them,” UCLA Asian American Studies lecturer Jean-Paul Contreras deGuzman told Food & Wine, explaining that the drink is “a quintessentially Asian North American story,” that “speaks to the trans-Pacific circulation of culture and cuisine that has lasted for generations.”

“The world of boba is not immune from things like worker exploitation and wage theft and participating in gentrification,” he said. “While it is a shame to not acknowledge the Taiwainese roots of boba, it’s important to understand its complexities in general." 

In fact, boba tea isn’t the only item in the Asian food space that has been a victim of appropriation. In 2013, a London restaurant called Mo Pho, which has since closed, received legal notice of copyright infringement from Pho Holdings, the company behind the British restaurant chain Pho, for using the name of the Vietnamese noodle soup in its name. 

Days after the Dragon’s Den episode aired, Antoan Phu launched a Change.org petition, demanding Pho Holdings let go of its copyright.

“Pho connects with me in a way that isn’t just about taste,” he told Food & Wine. Living far from family, enjoying the dish is a way for him to connect with his heritage, and he had heard about the trademark case from a small cafe near him. “They were really concerned about what it could mean for the future of the Vietnamese community here in the UK… When they feel under threat, I feel it too — it’s not just about businesses; it’s about our community and preserving our identity.”

Raising the flag worked. On October 16, Pho Restaurant issued a statement on its Instagram account, which said, “We would never attempt to trademark this dish,” but admitted they do have a registered trademark around its brand identity. Though Phu was grateful they addressed the issue, he felt it “missed the mark” and “managed to shoot themselves in the foot about the issue.”

With 215 people supporting the Change.org petition, by October 22, the company surrendered its trademark — 11 years later — as first reported by the Daily Mail. “This is a huge victory, not just for Vietnamese cuisine, but for the preservation of shared traditions that belong to all of us, not corporations,” Phu wrote on the page. “Together, we have proven that when we unite, we can protect the traditions that connect us across borders and generations.”

Back over at the Canadian canned bubble tea company, action has been slow-moving. Bobba also posted a lengthy statement on October 13, apologizing for its “words and actions” on the reality show, acknowledging that Liu“raised very valid points regarding cultural appropriation and we welcome this learning opportunity.”

They also addressed an especially touchy point that was raised on the show when the founders said that they were making a “healthier” alternative, implying that the original boba tea was a poor option. (It’s important to note that claiming a “healthier” version is a common tactic of appropriation — one that shows bias.)

“It bothers me when people have the audacity to say they are ‘‘improving’ other cultures’ food,” Taiwanese food writer and photographer Jessie YuChen said, adding that they are grateful to Liu for “speaking when things feel off,” allowing for the discussion of “the importance of proper representation.”

Bobba also claimed that because English is their second language, “we know our choice of words was misguided and understand people’s reaction.” They stated that they’re now re-evaluating their packaging to acknowledge boba's Taiwanese roots.

As soon as the show aired, the company received outrageous reactions, including death threats, to the point that Liu spoke out in its aftermath. “I just don’t want the legacy of this segment to be pitchforks and people fearing for their safety,” the Marvel star said in a TikTok posted on October 12. “We’re starting to lose the plot of…the positive energy of what this is, which is let’s educate people, let’s make the world a better place, let’s make people aware that certain things aren’t okay from a cultural perspective.”

But he said he is grateful to everyone commenting and encouraged the public to continue doing so, in a respective and productive manner. “We hit on a really important discussion about cultural appropriation, what it is, how is something exploitative rather kind of paying homage and paying respect, when is that line crossed,” the 35-year-old actor said. “I’ve experienced a massive wave of positivity and support from people from every community and I just think that’s really incredible, and I really appreciate that.”

One of those who spoke out was Taiwanese American Olivia Chen, co-founder of Twrl Milk Tea, who posted a TikTok reaction on October 11 to show that there are other ready-to-drink boba companies out there who are all about highlighting the drink’s origins.

“We are passionate about sharing the flavors of heritage and culture in thoughtful ways,” Chen told Food & Wine of the company she started in 2021 with Chinese American Pauline Ang, which is available at stores like Whole Foods, Sprouts, World Market, and Aldi. “There are companies like us with Taiwanese and Chinese heritage who are creating boba and milk tea products inspired by our own culture for the world to enjoy.” 

In a surprising twist, Liu responded to their video, asking them to submit a deck, which his team is currently looking at. “He is not only a superhero on screen but here he was on our TikTok engaging with our small business,” Chen said. “It was a surreal superhero moment.” 

After all, the drink is one she and Ang turned to growing up “when we needed comfort,” and it remains a “drink we enjoy with family and friends,” as well as a “pick-me-up that fuels our day.” She added that as an entrepreneur, “it's our responsibility to be vocal advocates for honoring cultural traditions and encouraging support for Asian founders who thoughtfully build products that reflect our heritage.”

When it comes down to it, it’s all about respect and giving proper credit for how the food items came to be. “There is nothing stopping you from making things that are inspired by other cultures, but Simu called out the right things,” Yang said. “When you’re doing a respectful refresh of something, you’re acknowledging that that thing exists. You’re elevating the original context and origins of that thing. And you’re kind of making it perhaps more accessible, more open.” 

Or, as he put simply: “Appreciate, don’t appropriate.”