Meet Our Favorite Red Wine for Grilling Season

On its surface, Carménère’s fortunes mirror a bad movie: It’s a tale of nobility, mistaken identity, a fall from grace, and finally regaining the respect it deserves. Few other varieties — perhaps no other grapes — can claim to have seen so many ups and downs.

It all started in Bordeaux, where Carménère once played a significant role in the classic blends of the region. The arrival of the vine louse phylloxera, however, which decimated Bordeaux in the mid- to late-1800s, was the beginning of the end of the variety’s hay day there. Today, though it’s arguably the least important of the six main varieties (the others are Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot, and Malbec), Carménère can still be found, albeit in tiny quantities. 

This grape reaches its fullest expression in Chile, where there is more Carménère planted than anywhere else in the world, and where excellent wines, both varietally labeled and in blends, are helping it earn the respect its fans have known it deserved for a long time.

Interestingly, a great deal of what pretty much everyone thought was Merlot in Chile turned out to be Carménère, but this wasn’t formally confirmed until the mid-1990s, when Jean-Michel Borisquot, an ampelographer visiting from France, discovered that “Merlot Chileno” wasn’t Merlot after all, but Carménère that had arrived in Chile before phylloxera had burned its way through Bordeaux,  

Where is Carménère grown?

In Chile, where the majority of Carménère you’re likely to find is from, there are a number of regions where it thrives with particular success. They include the Colchagua Valley, in the central valley of Chile, south of Santiago and in the southern portion of the Rapel Valley. Here, fresh air from the Pacific and the Andes tends to allow for a longer growing season and produce elegant Carménère.

The Rapel Valley, which encompasses both the Colchagua and Cachapoal Valleys, is fairly large and harder to pin down in terms of consistent Carménère style; it’s best to explore as widely as possible when purchasing wines from there.

Maipo is also a source of excellent Carménère. It stretches from south of Santiago toward the Rapel Valley, and between the Coastal Range mountains to the west and the Andes to the east. Its Mediterranean climate and range of terroirs (more sand-influenced soils heading toward the Coastal Range and more Andean ones, with their alluvial, stone, and clay compositions, to the east) allow for a lovely range of Carménère styles here. Cabernet is king in Maipo, but there are excellent Carménères to be found, too.

What does Carménère taste like?

At their best, Carménère-based red wines are full of brambly berries and occasionally plums, herbs like bay leaf and sage, tobacco, spice, and, more often than not, the distinct “green” character of bell peppers. Notes of dried flowers are also common, though it’s the green note that has become its most recognizable (and divisive) calling card.

“Good temperatures, diverse soils, and little rain means Carménère is much more at home here than in France," says Christián Aliaga of 3 Mono. "It's adapted really well and in the past 20 years, we enologists have grasped its potential. With lower acidity than Cabernet Sauvignon and silky tannins, it's attractive and intense, and a great example of versatility.”

True to its Bordeaux roots, Carménère lends serious character to red blends. Clos Apalta, one of the great wines not just of Chile but of the world, is built on the variety, which is blended with other Bordelais grapes; the 2020, for example, is 64% Carménère, with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Petit Verdot rounding it out. 

In the Veneto, the northern Italian region that is also home to a notable Carménère culture, standout producer Inama blended 85% of it with Merlot in their 2020 Carménère Più bottling. This is a variety that makes up for its lack of widespread familiarity with high impact when it is used as a star in a blend, and even on its own.

What food pairs well with Carménère?

Carménère is a terrifically versatile grape at the table. It has the structure to stand up to fat and protein, yet typically shows enough fruit to serve as a counterpoint to more savory flavors. And its greener notes work wonderfully with spice rubs and herb-flecked sauces.

Master Sommelier Desmond Echavarrie, founder of Scale Wine Group, says that Carménère works well alongside roasted bell peppers and meat and vegetables from the grill. “When I grill meat, I always grill veggies with it, and one of my favorites is bell pepper, which makes a great mirror-match pairing with Carménère,” he explains.

He also finds that chimichurri pairs well with Carménère, which makes sense given its herb-forward character. “The classic green or sometimes vegetal character often found in Carménère does certainly affect how it pairs with food,” he adds. “It allows for, and sometimes begs for, more strongly flavored foods. For this reason, Carménère can be a great match for heavier and stronger flavored meats like lamb, wild boar, and goat. I also like how it pairs with spice elements like espelette or smoked paprika.”

In other words, as grilling season approaches, it’s time to break out the Carménère.