Experience Istanbul's Food Scene Beyond the Tourist Traps

Most visitors to Istanbul spend their time wandering among the city’s various touristy spots; whole days are filled with checking off the Hagia Sophia, Grand Bazaar, Blue Mosque, and recently opened Galataport that top “must see” lists. One offering that is vastly overlooked, however, is Istanbul’s food scene.

In reality, the city has a far broader, eclectic mix of dishes and experiences to sample. Long mornings can be whiled away indulging in decadent Turkish breakfast spreads, where hunks of fluffy simit bread are dipped into fresh jams and creamy cheese fondues. Afterwards, visitors can lounge at fragrant cafes, where locals revive centuries old cafe culture. More hearty meals also await, including moreish street food dishes and seven-course tasting menus.

Here’s how to plan a visit to Istanbul around the local food.

Start the day with a Turkish breakfast

In Turkey, kahvalti (breakfast) is a decadent affair involving table-long spreads. Simit forms the basis of this meal; the soft ring-shaped bread is torn up and dunked into a multitude of spreads. Jams typically include tangerine, apricot, fig, and sour cherry. A slightly more tangy concoction is also formed by mixing sweet molasses with earthy tahini. Savory dishes are also available, including briny olives, fragrant kaşar cheese, and menemen, a rich mix of tomatoes, peppers, and eggs served in a cast iron skillet.

Extravagant breakfast spreads can be found in the Beşiktaş district along Çelebi Oğlu Street, which transforms into somewhat of an outdoor dining hall during the early hours of the morning. A particular favorite among locals is Çakmak Kahvaltı Salonu. The humble cafe is well known for its muhlama, a rich fondue-like dish made from kolas cheese, butter, and ground cornmeal. For breakfast with a view, head up to Pierre Loti, a spot overlooking the Golden Horn and named after the famous French novelist who used to work from atop the Eyüp gondola.

Immerse yourself in ancient coffee culture

Istanbul’s coffee culture emerged in the 16th century, when coffee houses, or kıraathanes, started to open across the city. The drink quickly rose in popularity, with the infamous Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent crowning it “the black pearl.” As cafes transformed into hubs for intellectuals, diplomats, and traders, the drink and the institutions became embedded in Turkish culture.

Cafes still line the pavements of the city; locals can often be found lounging outside from plastic chairs, chatting as they sip from petite cups of coffee and tulip-shaped glasses of tea. The best thing to do is grab a table at the busiest spot close to you. For those who like a plan, Corlulu Ali Pasa Medresesi in the Fatih district is a secluded courtyard spot offering shisha and hot beverages. Coffee making classes are also available for those who want to learn more about the ritual and how to brew the drink using a traditional cezve pot.

Dive into the street food scene

It is common to see locals rushing around and eating on the go in Istanbul. To cater to this lifestyle, the city has a plethora of “fast food” dishes sold at street food venues. In the morning, sesame seed simit bread is available at red and white-striped stalls or from wooden tables perched outside bakeries. For more substantial meals, head to Kadiköy market on the Asian side of the city. Located right at the entrance, the hole-in-the-wall eatery Çarsi Balikçisi is famous for its Balık-ekmek, a refreshing grilled fish sandwich. Lahmacun, a crispy flatbread topped with minced meat, onions, red peppers, parsley, and lemon juice, can be found at Halil Lahmacun and Borsam Taş Fırın in Kadıköy.

Indulge your sweet tooth

Turkey has a plethora of infamous desserts to please even the most ardent of sugar fans. Perhaps the most well known is lokum, or Turkish delight. These bite-sized jelly textured sweets are wrapped in quaint boxes at the on-site shop at Divan Brasserie Bebek. The restaurant is also conveniently located across from Mesur Bebek Badem Emesi, a dessert shop that has been specializing in marzipan since 1904.

Another popular dessert is Turkish baklava, a rich treat made out of flaky layers of phyllo pastry, chopped nuts, and lashings of syrup. Various takes on the delicacy can be found at Hafız Mustafa 1864, which now has several locations across the city. For a truly immersive experience, visitors can sample the desserts at Şark Kahvesi in the 15th-century Grand Bazaar, where stone archways and an ornate facade ooze traditional charm. 

Sample a Michelin-starred meal

For visitors looking to splurge, Arkestra is the perfect option. The Michelin-starred restaurant set in a 1960s villa in the Etiler district was opened by husband-wife duo chef-Patron Cenk Debensason and Debora Ipekel, a former NTS Radio host. The menu draws inspiration from French cuisine and local ingredients — picture monkfish married with saffron rouille and duck breast laced with tart ginger chutney. Audiophile Ipekel has also curated an eclectic atmosphere; the Listening Room, an intimate bar located above the restaurant, is decked out with an extensive sound system and vinyl collection for guests to enjoy.

Another notable spot is Mikla, which occupies a sleek rooftop in the bohemian Karaköy neighborhood. While lacking the intimacy and ambiance of Arkestra, Mikla’s Anatolian-inspired menu features traditional regional dishes. The offering changes depending on the seasons, but classics include slow-cooked lamb loin topped with tangy apple molasses and traditional mantı parcels smothered in smoked buffalo yogurt.